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100			_aKhan, Mahwish J _957382
245			_aFactory manager dilemma: _bPurchasing practices and environmental upgrading in apparel global value chains/
260			_bSage, _c2020.
300			_aVol. 52, Issue 4, 2020 ( 766–789 p.)
520			_aEconomic and environmental upgrading in global value chains are intertwined processes. The existing global value chain literature has so far articulated the relationships between economic and social upgrading but has only recently started to explore the challenges of environmental upgrading from the perspective of suppliers in the Global South. In this article, we examine the ‘factory manager dilemma’ as a way of conceptualising the purchasing practices and environmental upgrading requirements faced by suppliers in their dealings with lead firms in global value chains. Specifically, we analyse the environmental upgrading challenges experienced by Pakistani apparel firms. We conclude that Pakistani apparel suppliers are required both to absorb the consequences of global buyers’ unsustainable purchasing practices and to reduce their own profitability – all in the name of sustainability.
700			_aPonte, Stefano _957383
700			_aLund-Thomsen, Peter _957384
773	0		_08877 _917103 _dLondon Pion Ltd. 2010 _tEnvironment and planning A _x1472-3409
856			_uhttps://doi.org/10.1177/0308518X19876945
942			_2ddc _cEJR
999			_c14422 _d14422